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During another overnight work shift, I ventured to the northwest corner of Georgia to visit Cloudland Canyon State Park. Not far from Chattanooga, Tennessee, Cloudland is an impressive canyon with many miles of hiking trails.
With Daylight Saving Time having just ended the day before, I was able to take advantage of the new, earlier, 5:30pm sunset and still make the 2-hour drive home to Atlanta before my overnight shift started. I arrived at the park’s visitor center shortly before sunset and was pleasantly surprised by how short the walk was from the parking lot to the canyon’s main overlook.
The expansive view to the northeast would’ve been even more impressive for sunrise
The expansive view to the northeast would’ve been even more impressive for sunrise, with the canyon walls funneling one’s gaze along the valley, toward the open, rolling hills of Tennessee.
Nevertheless, the approaching dusk illuminated the peak fall foliage colors in a beautiful blaze of yellows and reds. The heavily forested canyon carves its way from west to east across the vistas afforded by a series of overlooks before turning toward the north as the steep, rocky, canyon walls erode into the surrounding hills.
The West Rim Loop Trail is a very easy hike, offering multiple vantage points to take in the park’s natural beauty. For those seeking more adventure, the trails into the canyon floor offer more challenging hikes leading to multiple waterfalls.
The West Rim Loop Trail is a very easy hike, offering multiple vantage points to take in the park’s natural beauty.
But, it was nearly impossible to tear myself away from the canyon’s rim. I was transfixed by the vibrancy of a sole tree whose leaves had turned a rich, deep, red. It was surrounded by faded yellow and burnt orange trees, making it stand out all the more.
Gazing at that tree, I felt the stress and pressures of modern life, the long drive home, and my upcoming work shift dissolve into triviality. The intensity of natural life – even in the process of dying, as this tree’s beautiful red leaves were – was mesmerizing, as the entire forest began swaying in a gentle autumn breeze.
The intensity of natural life – even in the process of dying, as this tree’s beautiful red leaves were – was mesmerizing
Unfortunately, my timing to meditate fully and also visit the waterfalls was a bit off, and I was rapidly losing daylight as I descended into the canyon. I made the difficult decision to stop and turn around halfway down the trail toward the first waterfall and promised myself I’d return with more time to spare in order to further explore.
“As long as the earth endures, seedtime and harvest, cold and heat, summer and winter, day and night will never cease.”
Genesis 8:22
Keller and I took a road trip up to North Georgia for another hiking adventure one morning in early spring. We were visiting Helton Creek Falls in Blairesville, near Dahlonega and Blood Mountain.
The weather had just started cooperating after a few weeks of vacillating between 70 and 50 degrees. Today was closer to 80 in the city and around 75 in the mountains. With the sun shining brightly, we eagerly exited the car after navigating miles of hairpin, cliffside roadways plus 2 more miles of a single-lane, gravel road, leading to the trailhead parking lot.
The hike itself to the falls is extremely short. You can see and hear the water driving into the parking lot, making it a great choice for those who like instant gratification. The elevation change and uneven terrain along the trail are only mildly challenging, but there are plenty of slippery rocks to avoid, as you get up close and personal at the base of the falls.
The hike itself to the falls is extremely short. You can see and hear the water driving into the parking lot.
A dozen or so wooden stairs descend from the trail to the creek and offer perfect views of the lower portion of Helton Creek Falls. Being at water level allowed Keller to drink deeply as I soaked in the peaceful setting down here below the trail.
I was surprised at the amount of other visitors for a Tuesday, and had been hoping for a repeat of some of my more secluded mid-week hikes to other destinations, but today’s weather and Helton Creek’s easy accessibility were too attractive for fellow revelers of nature to deny. Even so, no more than 25 other folks passed by Keller and me in either direction of this out-and-back, quarter-mile hike.
I spent my time amongst three different vantage points on the adventure: the lower falls’ pool, an observation deck atop the lower falls, and the pool of the upper falls beyond the observation deck. I had no idea there’d be a pair of waterfalls on this trip, and both are spectacular. The upper falls are bigger and there’s plenty of space to wade or swim in the pool.
Today’s weather and Helton Creek’s easy accessibility were too attractive for fellow revelers of nature to deny
Keller andI carefully surveyed the scene and crossed about 15 feet of Helton Creek over downed tree logs to reach the shallower portions of the waterfall’s pool where we could stand on rocky creek bed, or easily hop from rock to rock in deeper spots. To be clear, this approach route to the upper falls is not mandatory, as the observation deck offers a fantastic view of the upper falls and its pool. But, for those daring to seek out the base of the larger waterfall, some tricky maneuvering may be required to stay dry.
Keller and I also felt bold enough to scramble up the side of the lower falls’ relatively flat, stony border. A couple of pulse-quickening foot slides on the way up ensured we took extra care and maintained comically low stances once we turned around to descend the falls.
Before we left, grateful for the adventure and lack of injury, we met a family of four whose two young girls wanted to pet Keller. He excitedly obliged and when the mom started snapping pictures of her kids, I offered to take a photo of all four of them.
I had no idea there’d be a pair of waterfalls on this trip, and both are spectacular. The upper falls are bigger and there’s plenty of space to wade or swim in the pool.
Only after the photo, did I notice the dad’s folding, white cane, as his wife took his hand and began guiding him to the steps leading back up to the trail.
I was struck by an admiration for the man’s ability to negotiate the uneven terrain –an admiration that eventually deepened into awe. Not for his agility despite being blind, impressive though it was, but for the dedication of this man to enjoy the outdoors with his family and for the genuine delight that clearly radiated from the father.
When I considered how much of the pleasure I get from outdoor adventures comes in the form of sight, like summit vistas and scenic overlooks, I realized that there’s another, subtler type of pleasure hidden from view. It exists in the tactile sensations of your foot on the trail. It exists in the symphony of the elements. It exists in the smell of air, unpolluted by the city grind.
I’ve always noticed these non-visual pleasures and meditating in nature has only heightened them for me.But encountering this dedicated, nimble, happy blind man and considering how his non-sight senses must be processing an overwhelming amount of stimuli made me ponder just how much my own sight might be limiting what I hear, smell, and feel while hiking.
Being true in hiking, it’s not much different in life, either. Our big picture vision can easily blind us to everything else happening in the world. It’s a good idea to check in with your other senses in any of life’s pursuits. That means not just blindly following a game plan based only on logic, the heart’s passion, or gut instinct. Sure, we need to check in with all these different senses to make sure they’re inharmony. But we should also check with family and loved ones for their feedback and even test our worldviews outside our comfort zone, amongst strangers and adherents of different outlooks.
That’s the only way we can really live without blinders to the assumptions we all must make while navigating this life.
"Do all that you can to live in peace with everyone."
Romans 12:18
Last week I took a day trip up to Whitewater Falls near the N.C./S.C. border in a town called, Cashiers. I wanted to start checking off more items from my hiking bucket list, so I decided to take advantage of all the beautiful weather in mid-September.
It was a two and a half hour drive and I took Keller along for the adventure. The parking lot was a short, half-mile walk from an impressive overlook, providing a distant but great view of Upper Whitewater Falls. It has several cascades and multiple streams stretching across a wide section of cliff. It’s the tallest waterfall east of the Rockies but the hike to see both Upper and Lower sections is a grueling 8-mile loop, which I had far too little daylight to attempt.
Lower Whitewater Falls is supposedly just as grand as the 400+ foot Upper Whitewater Falls; I’m already planning a return trip at least for the Lower section and perhaps to snag both in one trip.
It’s the tallest waterfall east of the Rockies but the hike to see both Upper and Lower sections is a grueling, 8-mile loop
Steep, wooden planks sufficed as “stairs” with no railing and soon vanished altogether, absorbed into the earthen path and steep cliff wall
A little ways down some stairs, there’s another viewing platform with a more direct sightline of the falls. There’s some metal grating surrounding the perimeter of the large, wooden, hexagonal platform which spooked Keller enough to make him resist walking much closer to the edge than the wooden center allowed. He wouldn’t budge as I tried to strain toward the edge for a picture much to the amusement of a few elderly folks who were resting on nearby benches.
The next section of the hike was intense. Steep, wooden planks sufficed as “stairs” with no railing and soon vanished altogether, absorbed into the earthen path and steep cliff wall. The ridgeline was perilously narrow, uneven, and wound through several switchbacks before opening to a river pool, where the crashing falls from above collected.
A friendly hiker heading back up the trail informed Keller and me that there was a large snake on the side of the trail just around the bend ahead. He showed me a picture of a sizable Water Moccasin, or perhaps Copperhead, on his camera phone and I thanked him for kindly sharing the trail intel. Keller and I cautiously made our way around the last switchback; our eyes peeled for any slithering motion at the edges of the trail, but thankfully encountered nothing.
As we made our way onto the rocky shore of the river, we saw a family of four, plus two dogs, and carefully negotiated passing by each other amongst the wet, slippery rocks and large boulders one had to climb to continue on the trail. I relayed the same info about a snake sighting to the family patriarch who expressed gratitude at my stated concern for his kids and dogs especially to watch out for it.
We took a brief rest here, Keller lapping up river water, while I snapped some pictures. The next part of the hike involved a tricky bridge crossing that traversed the river, but there were no stairs leading up to its high location, perched on boulders. We found the best angle of attack possible, and scrambled up the rock, Keller’s nails scarping and grinding on the boulder for purchase, adding to the abundance of scratch marks already there from dogs doing the same maneuver for years upon years.
Once we were safely on the bridge, the crossing and dismount were relatively easy. The trail widened out substantially on this leg of the journey, but still had narrow, steep, and uneven sections. We ran parallel to the river for a bout a mile and a half while I expectantly strained my ears to pick up the sound of crashing waterfalls.
The next part of the hike involved a tricky bridge crossing ... but there were no stairs leading up to its high location, perched on boulders
After a short distance, Lower Whitewater Falls mimics the Upper section in a 400+ foot drop. But I had started my hike around 2:15pm and wasn’t aware of how far the hike from Upper to Lower Falls was. Daylight, plus the two and a half hour drive home were beginning to create a time crunch for me, and I could tell Keller was pretty gassed and hot as well.
After several stops in shallow creeks for him to submerge and refresh, we found a trail sign informing us it’d be another mile and a half to get to LWF, so we elected to take a break on a nearby riverside bench and reflect on the natural beauty around us as we rested up for the two-mile-plus journey back to the parking lot.
We tried trail running (but mostly trotting for steep or dangerous sections) on the return trip to save some daylight and some time. When we reached the original overlook trailhead we were both dripping wet from the light rain that had moved in for the final half-hour of the hike. The cool spray churning off UWF only added to the refreshing atmosphere. My skin, so hot and sweaty before, had been quenched by the rain and felt as though it were drinking deeply from the water landing on me.
It turned out the trail run was helpful in another way, too. While driving home, we cruised by signs stating night paving would begin at 7pm at the designated mile marker. I did some quick math and pressed down the accelerator gently urging us onward. We passed roadwork crews who were just about to begin paving by shutting down one lane of I-85 and several police cars assembling behind them with their lights flashing. We changed lanes and passed the roadwork zone at 7:01pm.
Smiling at our good fortune to have so narrowly avoided that potentially monstrous delay, we finished our drive home, Keller snoozing exhaustedly in shotgun, and me listening to nostalgic CDs from my teenage years while marveling at the gorgeous sunset over Lake Hartwell on the Georgia/South Carolina border.
"Be very careful, then, how you live—not as unwise but as wise,making the most of every opportunity, because the days are evil."
Ephesians 5:15, 16
Taking a hike to Raven Cliff Falls with a coworker had a great payoff in the view compared to the pictures I’d seen online and expectations I’d already made. It’s one of the more unusually positioned waterfalls, tumbling over several cascades before taking a sharp left turn and plummeting within the confines of a carved out hollow in the cliffs. The back of this hollowed out chamber has a cavernous, subterranean river essence about it, due to the walls covered in falling water from the overflowing river.
But to start this five-mile, out-and-back hike we followed the trailhead, located directly across the street from the parking lot, along a well-maintained but narrow path. Keller was sniffing excitedly at the many campgrounds scattered along the riverbank and we saw a few people setting up camps. We commented about what a good spot this would be to arrange a group camping trip, plenty of sites with pre-made fire-pits and ample room for tents and hammocks.
The forest is dense with shady trees but at midday, even the coolness of the woods isn’t enough to prevent us from shedding light jackets. In late November, the sunny weather is surprisingly warm but the short length of winter days and the relatively long hike cause the light to quickly sink below the treetops and rugged, mountainous surroundings.
The back of this hollowed out chamber has a cavernous, subterranean river essence about it
We stopped at several waterfalls along the trail, some of impressive height and width. There were pools surrounding one with a relatively easy path to follow with Keller as I snapped some quick pictures and let him get a drink. He could easily wade into the river pool up to his chest and laid down to cool off before shaking dry and bounding up the banks to return to the trail.
As we approached the turning point for the hike, a towering mountainside comes into view. With the light fading quickly, we had to turn back and make our way to the trailhead parking lot.
However, on a return visit to Raven Cliff Falls for a larger camping trip, a group of us ventured past the steep, rock scramble to the right of the falls. Exposed, rocky crags dominate the faces of the cliffs. The trail gruels through another steep incline on the final stretch to a rock outcrop overlooking the secondary drop to Raven Cliff Falls. From here, you can look up toward the cliffs and see nothing but rocks and the trees of the forest on top of the mountain.
The trail gruels through another steep incline on the final stretch to a rock outcrop
In front of the outcrop is a picturesque waterfall, its glistening waters pooling around the overlook’s bend in the river before rushing over another drop of rocks, back along the trail we’d taken.
Back on the trail, there’s a significantly steeper, more rugged path leading higher up the cliffs. Expectantly, we ventured up the trail, scrambling from boulder to tree root, and finally arrived at another, smaller, rock outcrop.
From here, we got our first, full-view glimpse of Raven Cliff Falls. It was a spectacular, 50-foot, arching spray that shot directly at the cliffs, carving them out with the relentless force of nature.
Hopping down a level on the rock clearing gives access to the pool surrounding this cliff-side waterfall and a clear look into the back of the cavernous chamber. Downriver, the falls rush toward the lower clearing and rock outcrop we’d just visited, flowing along a winding maze of channeled paths hidden in the rock.
I wasn't expecting to find this higher vantage point of the falls, but we weren't the first up there that day. A few hammocks were setup with impressive views overlooking the water and a precipitous cliff face. We followed the river upstream for a bit before cooling our feet in the shallow rapids and returning to basecamp for the evening.
In the morning, I woke up early with an itch to scramble up the path again, and see the sunrise from that highest outcrop. Thanks to a perfectly situated campsite, it was a quick hike to the face of the falls and cliffs. I was completely alone at the monolithic clearing and basked in the silence of the forest.
It was a spectacular, 50-foot, arching spray that shot directly at the cliffs, carving them out with the relentless force of nature
"In His hand are the depths of the earth and the mountain peaks belong to Him."
Psalm 95:4
Tallulah Gorge was a spectacular check off my Georgia State Parks bucket list. The weather was just warm enough to still get by without a jacket and the sun shone brightly in the crisp autumn air. Fall colors had peaked a few days prior and the wave of tropical storms farther south had stripped many leaves off several limbs of trees throughout the Blue Ridge Mountains.
There’s a dam-controlled reservoir feeding the river that flows throughout Tallulah Gorge. After being carved out by millions of years of flowing water, the river can now be nearly stopped to allow hikers onto the gorge floor, or it can be allowed to flow at roaring speeds, letting adventurous kayakers rip through the soaring, winding walls of quartzite.
Due to the pandemic, the park wasn’t permitting hikers into the floor of the gorge and the river was flowing rapidly, nearly reaching the level of the final platform of a dauntingly long series of stairs running down Hurricane Falls. The North Rim hike provided excellent vantage points for Bridal Veil Falls and others. A massive, smooth-faced monolith lays at an angle across the width of the river. The perfect Sliding Rock, as its name implies, awaits hikers and swimmers wishing to cool off on summer days when they’re lucky enough to obtain a floor permit at Tallulah Gorge.
The North Rim hike provided excellent vantage points for Bridal Veil Falls
Despite the loss of leaves post-hurricane and half a week past peak color, the foliage throughout the park was bursting with brilliant oranges and fiery yellow leaves mixed in with the greens and reds of their later- and earlier-changing neighbors. Individual trees and even single leaves would contain many or all of those colors in gradients and shades that shimmered in the sunlight.
Seeing the successive ridgelines of densely forested land marching down to the river throughout the gorge adds depth to the scenery. Heading downriver past multiple waterfalls, over cascades, sliding rocks, and along the banks of the gorge, the river flows serenely throughout the park. Every dramatic landscape along the gorge walls and the river banks is surpassed by the next, newly revealed view of ridgeline as the hike bends and travels past towering cliffs.
The foliage throughout the park was bursting with brilliant oranges and fiery yellow leaves
One of the most interesting landmarks in the park isn't a natural feature at all, but rather, a man-made structure of steel nestled in the trail of the North Rim hike. In 1970, Karl Wallenda performed an incredible daredevil feat by walking a high-wire spanning 1,000 feet across Tallulah Gorge, suspended 750 feet above the ground. The support towers that held the high-wire have been knocked down, but still remain in the park, serving as a fascinating reminder to Karl's incredible feat.
During my visit, the park wasn't crowded at all. Several people passing by on the trails was the only main interaction I had. At most viewing platforms and overlooks, I had the surroundings to myself to enjoy the perfect autumn weather. With multiple routes and an option to explore the gorge floor, Tallulah offers extensive options for exploring the park.
With multiple routes and an option to explore the gorge floor, Tallulah offers extensive options for exploring the park
"He is before all things, and in Him all things hold together."
Colossians 1:17
Waking up for the Dukes Creek Falls hike was brutal. Eagerness, restless sleep, and a busy day required me to get out of bed, packed, and on the road before 7am. Keller was riding shotgun, dozing off, as the rising sun burned off the cool, misty, fog leftover from last night.
Once 400 gave way to state highways and country roads, we rolled through foothills of the North Georgia countryside and spied an open, vast stretch of farmland glistening in the foggy rays of sunrise. The scene was so striking, I pulled over and got out of the car to snap a picture. I could feel the foggy wetness clinging to the tall grass as I chased after the sunrise. The quickly evaporating fog caused tricky shifts in lighting - I found several serviceable angles, only to have them allude me as the light changed. Then I caught some rays of light filtering through the branches of a massive tree. The suspended water droplets of the morning mist sparkled and danced in the sun like fiery diamonds in the sky. I quickly snapped the shot and headed back to the car and an eagerly waiting Keller.
The trailhead parking lot for Dukes Creek Falls was empty and shaded by a vast tree canopy, giving it an impression of being much darker and much earlier than it truly was at that point in the morning. But at the corner of the lot, there’s a clearing and an overlook that drew me immediately toward it. There, the clear brightness of morning spills over a valley stretching the several miles to Yonah Mountain: the lone peak standing dead center in the distance. The valley had yet to have the last of its haze burned off by the sun, making it difficult to get a clear photo, but I made note to try later after the waterfall hike and headed past picnic areas and down to the trailhead.
The suspended water droplets of the morning mist sparkled and danced in the sun like fiery diamonds in the sky
Keller and I had the advantage of being the first people into the park that morning and took advantage of the time we had exploring the well-conserved, thriving vegetation that led right up to the trail. Mosses and mushrooms were blooming across the forest; bright wildflowers - and woodland creatures scurrying through the underbrush - punctuated the verdant, serene, scenery with pops of vibrant life.
At the first overlook platform, another warrior of the morning caught up to us with trekking poles and full pack, no doubt destined for many more miles than I intended to hike that day. She stopped to chat in a friendly but brief way, used her camera phone to take a quick picture and was gone, eager to gift us both a still and silent morning. The precious quiet once again returned as I changed lenses and zoomed in on the far-off view of the upper portion of Dukes Creek Falls, thundering mightily in the distance but conveying only a muffled growl over the towering treetops. I returned quickly to the path, knowing the through-hiker was likely not the only person who’d arrived to the park by now.
The precious quiet once again returned as I changed lenses and zoomed in on the far-off view of the upper portion of Dukes Creek Falls
Down a series of boardwalk platforms and staircases connecting the trailhead path with a loop trail at the banks of Davis Creek, there are fantastic views of rapids peeking through the trees at every step. A relatively broad path winds ever closer to the far below creek bank as its serpentine switchbacks carve lower and lower. At one stage, an enormous tree had fallen over the path and a rough cut-through had been hacked at the smaller branches. Keller raced with agility through the small clearing as I dipped under the trunk and broke past twigs, widening the way a bit for the folks I could now hear above me on the switchbacks.
The final level has more extensive boardwalks – decking that runs straight ahead as far into the face of a massive wall of cascading 12-foot water as you could care to walk. Here, two main forks of waterfalls mark the confluence of Davis and Dukes Creeks. The mist blowing back and hanging in the air reminds me of the pre-hike stop I took to capture similarly suspended water and sunlight. While the watery fog of that farm had been quickly burning off though, the water here was being continuously renewed. The rushing water slipping over the steep cliffs instantly began contributing to the replenishment of misty air bellowing all about the width of the observation deck.
I dipped under the trunk and brushed past twigs, widening the path a bit for the folks I could now hear above me on the switchbacks
Lower down, there’s another observation deck several stories closer to the creek's surface level. A second set of falls, the barely fathomable upper Dukes Creek Falls - those I'd spied earlier from a distance on the first overlook platform near the trailhead - are obscured by tree branches. You have to crane your head back nearly ninety degrees to fully get the scope and scale of the water plummeting from that 150-foot precipice. The falls careen to the looker’s left of the mountain and continue along other cataracts before accumulating with the water from Davis Creek’s smaller, closer waterfall into Dukes Creek as the two mingle and meander steadily onward.
I took a moment to sit on the mist-soaked benches of that lower observation deck and gave Keller some food and water. Setting up to meditate, I reflected on the sunrise I'd witnessed on that morning's drive and centered on that image. The sunlight had done a good job of burning away the wetness of the morning fog, but the water of these falls perpetually remained, a snapshot of that endless cycle of evaporation, condensation, and precipitation.
As long as it continued flowing, the falls were constantly renewing the source of the misty air here. That thought settled my mind into quietness for a bit. I sat a little while longer and reflected on how those thoughts applied to the company we keep. Do they provide a constantly renewing source of life and growth in us? Or, do they snuff out the drive and motivation in our lives, like fog burning off in the sun?
I checked in on Yonah Mountain again. This time it stood out crisply in the light of midday
I’d kept my light hoodie on for the chill-tinged hike down to the falls; but as I finished meditating and Keller and I began winding our way back up, I tied it around my shoulders and relished the rising, warming sun. Autumn hiking temperatures can be tricky and a disregarded hoodie at Amicalola Falls on a previous hike had proven to be a hasty decision as I had sat shivering lightly in that shady summit park.
Today was perfect for shorts and a t-shirt, though. I passed several groups of hikers, families, other dogs, and realized just how lucky I was to have woken up early and enjoyed those observation decks all to myself. They would be crowded soon, bustling with activity and unable to offer the same contemplative sanctuary they'd afforded me.
By the top, I’d worked up a decent sweat and checked in on Yonah Mountain again. This time it stood out crisply in the light of midday. The fog was all gone, but a touch of haze remained in the air, serving as a reminder of the morning’s misty origin and cementing today’s trail meditation of the water renewal cycle in my mind as I drove home to find similar sources of refreshment in my own daily life.
"Even youths grow tired and weary, and young men stumble and fall; but those who hope in the Lord will renew their strength." Isaiah 40:30
Excited for a three-night, civilization detox at a remote tree house cabin in the Nantahala National Forest, I eagerly began packing my rations of a couple gallons of water, a few apples, a head of celery, a small pack of rice, and a can of beans.
Along with food, I packed some other items to aid the mental health and spiritual components of the trip: some written cues for two mostly-memorized Tai Chi sequences; packs of seven distinct incense sticks, each corresponding to one of the body’s chakras; Bible scriptures for meditation; and a journal.
So, in the vein of Thoreau’s literary masterpiece Walden, I booked a remote cabin on AirBnB and prepared for a meditation retreat, albeit for a mere fraction of the two-year stint by the great American Transcendentalist. No television, music, Internet, phone, books, games, or clocks along with the fasting, ensured an overall reduction in many forms of consumption in general. By removing those distractions, I intended to free up bandwidth and allow myself to focus on the present moment, deeply meditate, and reset my body’s circadian rhythm to a healthy pattern.
I had been noticing unhealthy tendencies and attitudes toward various forms of consumption in myself
I had been noticing unhealthy tendencies and attitudes toward various forms of consumption in myself, most notably, media consumption. Whether via the web or cable-based; be it social or personal; video, music, news articles, even self-help books, nonfiction literature, podcasts, and audiobooks – they all eventually became escapes themselves, falling into the same trap of overconsumption.
Also, I knew I spent far too much time mentally consuming myself. Simultaneously playing the victim and the aggressor, I was allowing myself to become consumed by my own thoughts, fears, desires, frustrations, hopes, insecurities, anxieties, or any emotion or mental state that happened to enter my perception. I grew adept at harshly but justifiably critiquing myself at times, and petulantly but unnecessarily defending myself at others. However, I was rarely, if ever, simply observing myself and how emotions, like joy and frustration – or mental states, like thinking and imagining – affect my actions.
But later, I learned that the monologue itself is a mere manifestation of the true enemy – the ego
This resignation of our emotional stability can be a subtle, slow type of torture we perform on ourselves. I didn’t even realize how much or for how long I had allowed the voice of doubt, the sense of self-consciousness, and critic of my thoughts and actions to wrest control over the internal monologue I had once thought myself to govern. Regaining control over that self-talk seemed like a worthy goal. I found it reasonable to want to regulate that kind of inner discourse to avoid extraneous negativity and self-serving affirmations. But later, I learned that the monologue itself is a mere manifestation of the true enemy – the ego.
I also reevaluated my food consumption in general terms of diet and what food as fuel means for daily provisioning. With a handful of rice and beans, along with an apple, celery, and plenty of water, it seems a misnomer to call it fasting, but this dramatic reduction in daily food intake helped me fully realize my personal tendency toward overeating, even the healthiest of foods.
Overconsumption in general seemed like a root cause for many of the problems I saw not only in myself, but also in the world around us
I began examining my own relationship with food and the roles I expect it to play – be they physiological sustenance roles, psychological coping ones, social roles for fellowship amongst others who may be dining with me, or a spiritual role to provide thanksgiving, praise, and glory to God.
The river ran deeper still; but I felt sufficiently tasked with recapitulating those frames of mind, and knew I stood teetering on the brink of overwhelming myself with too much analysis. Overconsumption in general seemed like a root cause for many of the problems I saw not only in myself, but also in the world around us.
While at the cabin, a few noteworthy events took place for which all my preparations and deliberate intention setting could never fortify me. First, I had some of the greatest meditation sessions of my life. I'd frequently heard of stopping the internal monologue as a meditative practice, but I had never been capable of achieving any significant inner silence until this trip. When it happened, though, it was truly glorious.
The civilization detox had bolstered my spirit and left me with a calm sense of clarity that lasted for weeks
After spending the first two days meditatively carving my hiking staff, burning incense, praying, and (lightly) fasting, I noticed a seismic shift in my perception as I stood on the cabin deck, gazing out into the forest. All of my surroundings seemed to blur and then dissolve after an hour or so of silent, motionless meditation. The sun then began to reappear as the fixed star that it was, and I had a greater sense of the rotation of Earth causing the supposed "rising" and "setting" of the sun as it "moved" across the sky.
Also, the bears stalking my dog and me the first night and throughout the following days, grew bolder. The first night, an enormous mother bear tried to approach the cabin deck, emerging just enough from the forest for me to identify it in the fading twilight, attracted by the smell of my beans cooking for dinner, before sheltering Keller and myself inside. The next day, I saw her juvenile cub cross my path while Keller and I were out for a morning hike. It was the closest encounter with a wild bear I'd ever had and was exhilarating. On the final evening, I captured a photo of the returning juvenile, curiously peeking his head around a shed no more than 15 feet from my cabin.
As I packed my things to leave the following morning, I reflected on all that had taken place. The civilization detox had bolstered my spirit and left me with a calm sense of clarity that lasted for weeks. Unfortunately, the return to everyday life had a deleterious effect on all the progress I'd made, and I knew that future trips would be necessary to recall and reclaim that inner peace.
"But if we hope for what we do not see, we wait for it with patience."
Romans 8:25
I went on another recreational adventure a couple days ago. This one was far different from my standard, outdoor, hiking trip, though. Ali got me a blacksmithing class for our 6th (iron, apparently) wedding anniversary. I was going to learn traditional bladesmithing techniques to forge and form an iron railroad spike into a twisted-handle hunting knife!
I arrived at Goatnhammer, a blacksmithing company located at the Goat Farm in west midtown Atlanta. Despite the name, this complex of buildings set in a very rural micro-pocket of town is no longer home to the wide variety of farm animals they once had – save for a few chickens.
We donned protective eyewear and stepped into a hot, stone room, filled with roaring furnaces
I parked in the dirt and gravel parking lot and made my way to the oversized front porch of the reception building. A man with a British Isles accent clad in a kilt cheerfully greeted me, correctly inquiring if I was looking for the bladesmith group. I affirmed that I was and sat with the group of five other gentlemen as the Scotsman continued to regale with stories of his travels and various projects he’d completed.
It turned out this man was Mark Hopper, the owner of the establishment and a winning contestant on History Channel’s Forged in Fire bladesmithing competition show. Mark was much too humble to revel this fact to us, but upon discussions with instructors Eric and Devin at the end of our class, I learned this impressive bit of trivia.
After waiting for the remainder of the class, our two instructors escorted myself and two other students to the forge. Here, we donned protective eyewear and stepped into a hot, stone room, filled with roaring furnaces to heat the metal for our day of smithing.
Our anvils served as work benches, and our tongs held the slowly-evolving railroad spike in place as we struck it with heavy hammers
We watched intently as Devin and Eric went over safety procedures, and before long were grabbing long-handled tongs and placing our railroad spikes into a several thousand-degree forge. Most the time we spent working on our knives, the metal was anywhere from 1,000 – 1,500 degrees Fahrenheit. Gloves were discouraged and reminders were constantly issued that touching the metal even when it had lost its incandescent glow was a terrible idea.
Our anvils served as work benches, and our tongs held the slowly-evolving railroad spike in place as we struck it with heavy hammers. We’d take several trips back and forth from our anvil workstations to the forge to re-heat the metal, making it more malleable.
It’s done all in stride – no break to stop and wonder or lament about what’s been done, only focusing on what’s next to come
We also got to use a 50-ton metal press to help shape the thickness between the shoulder and blade of the knife. Hammering out a bevel on the lower portion of the blade was probably my favorite part. There’s a certain connection you can achieve with concentration, on any activity. Whether outdoors in nature surrounded by trees, or inside a stone and metal basement, hammering out iron knives, there’s a simple beauty in being aware of all of your actions.
The glancing blow that alters a knife’s shape serves as a sharp reminder to identify and rectify the error on the next swing. It’s done all in stride – no break to stop and wonder or lament about what’s been done, only focusing on what’s next to come.
To put the twist in the handle, we simply heated that end of the knife excessively from red, past deep orange, to a glowing golden-orange, and then used a vice to hold the blade upright and fit a giant wrench around the handle and literally twist the glowing, pliable metal.
The most intimidating machine we used was a metal grinder running at 70 MPH that “ate metal for breakfast, lunch, dinner, dessert, and snacks” according to Eric. In what seemed astonishingly short order, I was at the helm of this beast, grinding away my pre-form to a true blade shape and customizing the grip for my hand.
After five hours, we finally had finished knives, cooled, waxed and sharpened to an incredible degree. The whole experience was incredibly exhausting, both physically and mentally while trying to remain focused on the tactics of each stage of the blacksmithing.
The finished product turned out much better than I’d hoped for, and will outlast my generation and the next if cared for properly. The process and the sense of accomplishment and fulfillment are definitely worth a try.
"I can do all things through Christ, who strengthens me."
Philippians 4:13
On Wednesday, I journeyed again into the mountains of North Georgia, seeking solace and a reprieve from the city grind. This time, I visited Amicalola Falls. The drive from Atlanta is very easy with some nice country roads for the last half hour or so after leaving the interstate. The park entrance was a simple $5 tollbooth, and parking lots deposit hikers at the head of the Creek Trail, directly opposite the visitor’s center and playground.
Signage here showed a map of the yellow-blazed Creek Trail meeting blue-blazed Top of the Falls Trail, but the route is very straightforward and difficult to miss. There were also signs warning about black bears frequenting this area and advising hikers to stay alert.
With a piqued sense of excitement,Keller and I set off on the trail, letting him lap up some water from the creek before crossing over the bridge and navigating the uneven, tree-root-filled terrain. The trail, steep in some sections but wide enough to easily accommodate Keller and I walking side-by-side, was moderately difficult -- but nothing like the grueling, razor-thin ridgeline switchbacks of Upper WhitewaterFalls Trail in North Carolina.
The falls span a vast width of cleared forest and cascade in several sections just visible above the tree line
We made our way through a dense forest canopy that provided plenty of shade from the noontime sun. Early autumn temps in North GA were approaching 70 degrees that day, which made for perfect hiking weather. I wore only a short-sleeve shirt and long lightweight gym pants and felt comfortable, happy with my choice to leave a light hoodie in the car.
After about a mile, the Creek Trail reaches a reflecting pond stocked with trout and available to anglers with the proper permit. Mounted binoculars offer a great view here from the base of the falls to the peak of Amicalola. The falls span a vast width of cleared forest and cascade in several sections just visible above the tree line.
A bridge atop the creek provides an amazing perspective of nearly walking on water, directly over the falls
The Top of the Falls Trail picks up here and runs parallel to the water cascading down from the falls and pooling in calmer currents of the creek. The incline of the trail picks up a bit and several signs detail various animals that hikers are likely to encounter, such as snakes and a few raptors. There’s some cut-offs from the main trail to get a closer look at the smaller falls rushing down the mountain, or to simply reach the water’s edge and give your pup a well-deserved hydration break.
About midway up the trail, the roaring, main face of the falls dominates the view. Overlook platforms provide excellent vantage points at several stops along the 175 stairs leading to a viewing bridge that crosses directly in front of the falls. All of the stairs are made of metal grating, which is not the dog-friendliest design. Keller struggled at first but quickly got the hang of stepping on the right spots.
The bridge is a magnet for photo-ops and remained crowded the entire time for both my ascent and descent.Just as Keller was relishing being on solid ground again after crossing the bridge, the trail immediately turns up another staircase of metal grate steps –this time, over 400 of them – to reach the summit of the falls.
After a few minutes of maintaining this hyperaware presence, the most mesmerizing colors caught my eye
Once we had made it to the top, we took in the sweeping views of the North Georgia mountains. It was still a bit early in the season for any dazzling displays of color-changing foliage, but there was a noticeable amount of lighter green colors edging into shades of yellow across the valley. The vista over the top of the falls is expansive and a bridge atop the creek provides an amazing perspective of nearly walking on water, directly over the falls. Trees have been cleared out to frame the view as well and massive meadows behind the falls provide ample space to relax after the strenuous stair climb.
We posted up on a bench in a good-sized grassy field separating some of the summit parking lots for folks who prefer to drive to the peak of the falls. I used this calming interlude to meditate on the serenity of the journey and add a carving into my hiking staff.
With Keller grateful to be back on the earthen footpaths for the descent, I shifted from mindful meditation to active meditation. I focused on breathing in the natural beauty surrounding us and discerning the secrets of a humble rock or tree branch. Every step was a conversation and expression of gratitude between my feet and the earth. Every breath was an intricate exchange between my lungs and the green plants.
After a few minutes of maintaining this hyperaware presence, the most mesmerizing colors caught my eye. Here, amongst the unseasonable warmth of mid-autumn, I found the sign of fall I had been seeking. This single leaf, clinging to a tree full of unassuming chartreuse brethren, was a brilliant ombré of red and orange, fading into a dark yellow at the center.
How one leaf can produce such a vastly different outcome from a nearly identical environment compared to its peers is a mystery. But the seasons respond to their own inclinations and each leaf had its own lifespan. I paused to ponder that more deeply until Keller’s restless tugging at the leash snapped me back to reality and we finished our trot along the creek to the car.
"And let us not grow weary of doing good, for in due season we will reap, if we do not give up."
Galatians 6:9
When we got to our hotel at Jekyll Island, we immediately passed by the pool and landscaped grounds to the boardwalk heading out directly to the beach. I’d never been to any of Georgia’s Golden Isles, and Jekyll seemed like a great one to start exploring.
Our dog-friendly hotel had an enormous swath of public beach stretching along it. Ali and I were both excited to bring Keller on his first visit to the ocean. He’d never been to a beach outside the sandy shores of the Chattahoochee River but he was running into the surf and playing in the sand with no delay.
Sharing her love for the beach and the ocean with our pup was a huge win.
As he ventured farther out into deeper water though, he suddenly became aware of the waves and freaked out over the repetitive, driving water. We ran back and forth to the shallower surf, getting used to the timing and letting Keller play and splash in the waves as they crashed behind us, chasing us toward the beach.
The next day, we got to take a beachside pedestrian path, with dunes breaking up the ocean view intermittently as we walked to get lunch in a shaded park across the street from the beach. Keller stopped at several of the rinse stations for sandy beachgoers to cool off, walking under the misting shower heads and lapping up water from dedicated doggo water fountains along the way. After lunch, the heat of the day chased us back inside the hotel after having already spent an extended morning on the beach.
Other times, he'd mistime a wave and get swept up into a goofy, dog-paddling, bodysurf.
Once it was cooler out, we ventured to Driftwood Beach with Keller and were not disappointed. Named appropriately, there are massive pilings of beached deadwood. A thin but dense forest separates Driftwood Beach from the small highway that runs the extent of Jekyll Island.
Ali and I stopped here to take pictures while she danced among the driftwood while Keller ran along the sand, breaking sticks off every tree he could.
I loved watching our pup grow bolder and more confident in the water, learning how to time incoming waves. Other times, he'd mistime a wave and get swept up into a goofy, dog-paddling, bodysurf. He realized his overwhelmed fear at the outset had been unnecessary; he didn’t need to keep running away from every incoming wave.
Like waves, obstacles come at us day and after day and can batter us into submission. But remembering that an obstacle is just an opportunity for growth is crucial; we can shift our perspective and bodysurf that problem like a clumsy Great Dane rescue mutt.
"You rule over the raging of the sea; when its waves surge, you calm them."
Psalms 89:9